Method of forming crochet-stitch fabric-borders.



. W. H. CARTER.

METHOD OF FORMING CROCHET STITCH FABRIC BORDERS. AIILIOATION FILED MAILM, 1913.

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Patented Sept. 2, 1913.

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W. H. CARTER.

METHOD OF FORMING CROCHET STITCH FABRIC BORDERS.

APPLICATION FILED MAR. 27, 1913.

COLUMBIA FLANOURAI'H c0. WASHINGTON. n c.

Witnesses iomae Q 5 6M zwm.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

WILLIAM H. CARTER, 0F NEEDHAM HEIGHTS, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO THE WILLIAM CARTER COMPANY, OF NEEDHAM HEIGHTS, MASSACHUSETTS, A COR- PORATION OF MASSACHUSETTS.

METHOD OF FORMING CROCHET-STITCH FABRIC-BORDERS.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Sept. 2,1913.

Original application filed March 29, 1911, Serial No. 617,627. Divided and this application filed March 27, 1913. Serial No. 757,076.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that 1, WILLIAM H. CAn'rnR, a citizen of the United States, and a resident of Needham Heights, in the county of Norfolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement in Methods of Forming Crochet-Stitch Fabric-Borders, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, 1s a specification, like characters on the drawings representing like parts.

This invention relates to the method of forming a fan crochet stitch fabric border.

This application is a division of my 00- pending application Serial No. 617,627, filed March 29, 1911.

In order that the invention may be clearly understood, I shall disclose the best mode now known to me for carrying the same into effect.

In the drawings, Figure 1 is a side elevation illustrating mechanism by which my method may be practised; Fig. 2 is a similar view, but showing the parts difi'erently positioned; Fig. 3 is a somewhat diagrammatic plan View of a fan crochet stitch border fabric produced in accordance with and by my invention; Fig. 4 is a wholly diagrammatic view of a single set of stitches constituting the shell or cluster produced in accordance with and by my invention; Fig.

5 is a view similar to Fig. 3 of a double fabric border produced in accordance with and by my invention; Fig. 6 is a plan view of a stitch forming finger that may be employed in the practice of my method; and Fig. 7 is a diagrammatic view indicating the relation of the thread manipulating elements that may be employed in the practice of my invention.

Ornamental borders for knitted or other fabrics, such as under-garments are well known. The patents to Merrow, No. 413,077, October 15, 1889, and No. 414,233, November 5, 1889, clearly disclose the same. The said borders are therein represented as composed of a series of clusters or shells, each consisting of a series of radiating or generally fan shaped stitches formed by an eye pointed machine needle, a crochet hook or knitting needle, and a hook for a supplemental thread. The clusters or shells are formed in sem'atim, and the main and supplemental threads thereof are preferably continuous throughout the border. The stitches or loops forming the ribs of the clusters or shells shown in said Morrow patents are laid along substantially true radial lines and extend in fan sha 0 both to the right and to the left of a me ian line drawn from the center of the cluster to the edge of the fabric at right angles to said edge.

Heretofore each set or cluster of stitches of a shell-like border, such as shown in the patent to Merrow, No. 414,236, has been intentionally composed of stitches radiating substantially from a single point, and the machine for making such fabric has been designed and constructed to secure the penetration of the fabric always at the same point for the formation of the entire set of stitches. In practice, however, this repeated penetration of the fabric at the same point has always tended constantly to displace the fabric very slightly, so that there is no distinct form given to the base of each set of stitches. In other words, all the stitches radiate from a single point or center of penetration, which, however, has no defined area or location. Therefore, it has been necessary to hold the work firmly so as to prevent its displacement during the repeated needle penetration. In accordance with my invention and the practice of my method, I cause the first portion of the set of stitches to penetrate the fabric at a distinct and common point, and I then relatively shift the fabric and the needle, so that the succeeding portion of the stitches (and preferably the entire remaining portion of the stitches) penetrates the base or foundation fabric at an adjacent but distinct and common center, the stitches making up the second portion of the set of stitches overlying a part of the stitches of the first set and substantially confining or positioning them. Each of the several stitches making up any shell or cluster is primarily and predeterminedly laid in its proper position relative to all the other stitches of said cluster. For this reason, the said stitches preserve their original characteristics. They are originally laid with su'llieient slackness or amount of thread to give them an elevated or flufiy appearance, and this appearance is not lost in but is characteristic of the fabric prothough it is obvious that other and wholly; different means may be employed in the;

all the stitches of thatcluster still fartherin the same direction (that is, to the right), i

but the relative position of the several stitches is preserved unimpaired, and is not broken up and disarranged as would be the case if the stitches were laid in lines radiating both to the right and left and then all the stitches were drawn to the right or to the left. Moreover, because the stitches are laid from two centers, the later laid stitches of the cluster do not crowd out of place the earlier laid stitches of that cluster, f as is necessarily the case where a relatively, large number of stitches are all laid from a.;

common center.

Therefore, because there 3 is no drawing of the threads out of their relative positions, the threads are not subjected to undue tension, and hence the raised f or fluffy appearance of the clusteris prej served and it does not become flat.

One of the objects of the invention is to produce by the method herein set forth a f border composed of a connected series of shells or clusters, wherein the stitches or; loops all tend in the same general direcv tionthat is, toward the right or toward the left, as the observer looks toward the fabric; or wherein the threads or loops are so laid that the impression gained by the observer is that of a series of loops extend-1 ing to the right or to the left as stated. In? carrying out my invention, I preferably; also supply an increased amount of thread; in the formation of the loops or stitches, so; that the shell instead of being substantially flat as heretofore, is substantially raised; from the surface of the fabric or given a;

puifed appearance.

In carrying out my invention, I prefer-I ably form the stitches of a single shell or; cluster from a plurality of centers. In practising my method, I may and preferably dol employ a crochet or overseaming machine of the general type disclosed in the patent to Merrow, No. 428,501, May 20, 1890, al-

practice of my invention, and indeed that;

it may be practised by hand. Preferably,

however, and in order to produce the fabric; border at a rapid rate, I employ suitable;

mechanism. The mechanism preferably emf ployed includes an eye-pointed sewingi machine needle, a crochet hook or knitting.

needle and a supplemental thread feeding; hook.

' Referring more particularly to the drawi ings, wherein I have represented form of means for practising my invention and the article produced in the practice thereof, the

frame of the machine is indicated at 1, the eye pointed sewing machine needle, herein represented as vertically reciprocable, is indicated at. 2, the crochet hook or knitting needle at 3, and the feeding hook for the supplemental thread at 4:. These may be positioned fpresser foot is the machine or from the right viewing Fig.

1, and is passed in a step beneath the presser foot 5.

by step manner In order suitably to feed the fabric to which the border is to be applied, I preferably provide a feed slide 6 having a serrated or saw toothed edge 7, the teeth whereof are inclined to the left, as indicated in Fig. 1, and an extension 8 having a pin 9 received f in a slot 10 in a feed arm 11 pivoted at 12 on the framing of the machine. Heretofore so far as I am aware, the fabric has been fed in a step-by-step manner in one direction only beneath the presser foot, each cluster or shell being formed when the fabric is at rest. In the preferred practice of my method, I, however, impart a step-by-step forward feeding movement to the fabric and also a comparatively slight rearward movement following each forward move ment. This adjunctive rearward movement is for the purpose of positioning the stitches of the shells or clusters in the manner already indicated. It is evident that any suitable means may be employed to this end,

and that I may practise my method in any suitable manner. Preferably, however, I

i provide a gear wheel 13 fast upon the shaft 14 and meshing with a pinion (not shown) fast upon the shaft 16, which has fast thereon an eccentric strap 18 of an arm 19 having a slot-ted pivotal connection 20 with the feed arm 11. In this manner, the feed arm'and consequently the feed slide 6 are reciprocated in both directions. The extent of each forward feeding movement is preferably materially in excess of the adjunctive or rear ward feeding movement. Upon a face of the gear 13 I suitably secure Or form. a cam 21 to under-ride and elevate periodically the roll 22 loose upon a lever 23 pivoted at 23 upon the framing of the machine. The free end of the feed slide 6 rests upon the said roll 22, and the periodic elevation of said roll therefore periodically elevates the feed slide and simultaneously imparts a feeding movement thereto. If necessary, more than a single cam 21 may be employed. In order having a thin edge or portion 25, which in the rotation of the gear 13 is periodically brought below the roller 22, and thereby} materially elevates the same to effect the rearward feeding of the fabric.

The gear 13 is represented as driven in the direction of the arrow adjacent thereto in Fig. 1, and the relation of the parts is such that when the cam 21 engages and lifts the roller 22, the eccentric 17 is moving the feed slide to the left viewing Fig. 1. Therefore, the feed slide when elevated into feeding relation to the fabric, moves the same by means of the teeth 7 a suitable distance forward or to the left, viewing Fig. 1. The

continued rotation of the gear 13 brings the cam 24 beneath the roller 22, thereby again to elevate the feed slide 6. When the feed slide 6 is momentarily elevated by the cam 24, the eccentric 17 has now reached such a position that it imparts a rearward movement, or movement to the right of the feed slide 6. Therefore, the momentary engagement of the edge 25 of the cam 24 effects a slight rearward movement of the fabric, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2. The feed slide 6 is also provided with fabric engaging saw teeth 7 oppositely inclined with respect to the teeth 7 to effect the rearward feeding movement of the fabric.

The shell or cluster formed in accordance with the herein disclosed method may obviously have any suitable or desired num eight stitches. If desired, I may provide the edge of the fabric with a double row of shells. In such event, however, the outer overlying row of shells is fashioned as herein described.

At the front of the machine and in the line of feed of the fabric, I provide a preferably removable finger 26, shown in Fig. 6, the edge 27 of which acts as a former about and with respect to which the loops or stitches are laid. This finger is preferably slid in the work face of the machine and may be readily removed. The inner end 28 of said finger extends somewhat to the left of the needle 2, viewing Fig. 1, so that as the stitches are positioned by the needles, they are received by the narrowed inner end of said finger. The said finger is provided with a slight swell or shoulder 34 to hold the initial stitches of the shell in the position in which they are laid, and to prevent them from being forced or crowded substantially to the left, viewing Fig. 6.

In forming the ornamental border, I may employ, as indicated in Fig. 7, a main or sewing thread 30 fed by the sewing needle 2 and a thread fed by the hook or guide 4. I also provide a crochet hook or sewing machine needle 3, to which is imparted a reciprocatory movement above and then be neath the face of the fabric and in substantial parallelism therewith. The needles 2 and 3 may be operated in any suitable manner to impart the desired movement thereto. Each stitch is made up of two lengths or portions of thread constituting a single bight or loop. The main thread 30 extends from the point 31 of the fabric constituting a center from which certain of the stitches of the shell diverge. The hook of the knitting needle 3 is preferably positioned at the left of both threads, and thereafter draws them to the right, viewing Fig. 7, and positions them in the formation of the shell. The needle 3 is then moved to the lower face of the fabric, thereby completing one cycle of movement and positioning a single stitch of the shell or cluster. This operation is repeated until a suitable number of stitches to complete the shell are formed. The outer edge of the shell is formed of crocheted loops substantially as indicated in the Merrow Patent No. 414,233 and the supplement thread, if employed, preferably enters into the crocheted portions of the loops. If a double border, as indicated in Fig. 5, be desired, then after the fabric has been run once through the machine and a single series of clusters has been formed along or near its edge, the fabric is again run through the machine and the outer series of clusters 36 is formed in or upon the inner series or between it and the extreme edge and extends outward therefrom, as indicated in said figure.

Heretofore, in the formation of borders composed of a series of shells or clusters, the stitches as laid or during the formation of each shell or cluster, slide or are forced by succeeding stitches in the direction of the forward feed of the fabric. Therefore, and assuming a cluster to be formed of eight stitches, it is obvious that the first three or four stitches extend in a forward direction or generally in the direction in which the fabric is fed. The final stitches of the shell are extended in a direction opposite to the forward feed of the fabric, because the sewing machine needle which introduces the main sewing thread and the knitting needle do not participate in the forward feeding movement of the fabric, and hence tend to draw the last formed stitches or loops of the shell rearwardly or so that they radiate toward the right instead of toward the left,

and in the manner indicated in the Merrow Patents No. 413,07 7 and No. 414,233. Intermediate stitches or loops of the cluster extend directly outward, so that a general fan shaped effect is produced.

In practising my method and assuming that the shell or cluster is composed of eight are laid from a closely adjacent center and diverge therefrom, but are grouped with the three first laid stitches, so as to form a single shell or cluster. j

In order that the completed shells or clusters may present a raised or puifed appearance and not lie. substantially flat against the fabric, I provide an additional amount ofthread to the stitches, as by forming said stitches about a relatively broad finger or former 26. Moreover, I retain each stitch in the position in which it isinitia'lly laid at least until all the stitches of a cluster or shell are laid. In this manner, the stitches. are not distended and flattened, but remain.

puffed or elevated.

As "the machine herein represented is ad-- justed, the first three stitches of each shell or those lettered A, B and C, in Fig. 4, are laid when the fabric has been fed forward to a new position immediately fol-lowing the format-ion of the preceding shell or clus-' ter. Owing to the shape of the finger 26, these three stitches practically do not slide forward, but are substantially held in their position as laid.

These three stitches radiate from the center a. Thereupon the fabric is moved to the rear slightly as described, so that the succeeding threads of the shell radiate or extend from a new.

center 1 which is very slightly in advance of the center a. Preferably the first threads of those laid from the center 6, as, for example, threads D, E, partially overlie the threads B and C, so that even though the threads B and C do radiate very slightly to the left, they are partially concealed by the overlying threads. In the same manner,

the thread A may be overlaid if desired.v Practically, however, the threads A, B and (I do not radiate to the left, and the whole general effect of the threads or stitches of the shell is an inclination or curl to the right, as clearly indicated in Fig. 3. Inasmuch as in forming the shell or cluster as disclosed in the said Merrow patents, all the stitches radiate from a common point, it is, obvious that the tendency of each succeeding stitch was to crowd the others forwardly j The outer edge of the shell is crocheted by the knitting needle or crotchet hook 3, as substantially indicated in the Merrow Patent in the direction of feed of the fabric.

No. 414,233. The engagement of the knitting needle with the last stitch of each cluster or shell as the fabric is fed forward after the completion of the shell, draws all the threads toward the 'right,that is, in a forth in the following claims.

Claims: j

1. That method of producing a crochet stitch fabric border which consists in piercing the fabric adjacent its edge with a plurality of stitches, laying the said stitches individually in lines all having a general trend in the same direction, but which occupy positions predetermined in relation, and then, when all said stitches are laid, drawing them as a set, and without disturbing' their predetermined positions relative to each other, in that direction toward which they have said general trend, thereby increasing said characteristic trend.

2. That method of producing a crochet stitch fabric border which consists in piercing the fabric adjacent its edge with a plurality of stitches, laying the said stitches individually in lines all having a general trend in the same direction, but which occupy posit'ions predetermined in relation, supplying sufficient slack to each stitch as laid to impart thereto a fluffy or elevated characteristic, and then, when all said stitches are laid, drawing them as a set and without disturbing their predetermined positions relative to each other and their flufiy or elevated characteristic in that direction toward which they have said general trend, thereby increasing said characteristic trend.

3. That method of producing a. crochet stitch fabric border whichconsists in piercing the fabric adjacent its edge with a plurality of stitches at substantially the same point, laying the said stitches individually in lines all having ageneral trend in the same direction, but which occupy positions predetermined in relation, then piercing the fabric at a closely adjacent point with a second plurality of stitches, laying the said second plurality of stitches in a line all having the same general trend, but which occupy positions predetermined in relation, and then, when all thesaid stitches are laid, drawing them as a set and without disturbing their predetermined relation in that direction toward which they have said general trend, thereby increasing said characteristic trend.

4;. That method of producing a crochet stitch fabric border Which consists in piercing the base or foundation adjacent its edge with a plurality of stitches at substantially the same point, drawing said stitches individually into loops arranged in a general shell or cluster formation, relatively shiiiting the piercing instrumentality and said base or foundation; piercing the latter at a point closely adjacent to but distinct from said first mentioned point with a plurality of stitches; drawing said second plurality of stitches individually into loops overlying and confining the basal parts of the first plurality of stitches, thereby to complete the shell or cluster formation, drawing stitches of said shell or cluster formation as a set toward the position of the shell or cluster next to be formed, and then repeating said operation to complete the fabric border.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification, in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

WILLIAM H. CARTER.

Witnesses:

PRESTON MITCHELL, FRED WIIITTIER.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents,

Washington, D. G." 

